The first thing to do was to mount the foam insulation on the ceiling along with the lighting:
Between the R-19 in the ceiling and the 2" R-10 foamboard, the ceiling comes close to R-30. Flourescent lighting isn't my first choice for visually appealing light, but you can't beat it for situations where you don't want to throw much heat.
Once the ceiling was finished, we were off and running on mounting foamboard on the walls:
The foamboard is 2'x8' sections, which makes it slow going. We used a dual strategy of using Liquid Nails on the back to attach and seal the back of the foam to the walls, and then used screws/roofing-buttons to hold them in place. Roofing buttons are these thin 1" round discs that you punch a hole through then use like a big washer when putting in the screws. They were invaluable in this case as the screwheads would have otherwise just gone right through the foam as you tightened them.
By now we were nearly done with the foamboard:
You can see the liberal use of caulking on the joints to form a good vapor seal. We also caulked the inner joints where the boards interlock, so the inner seal should be fairly tight.
At this point we had just cut the rough opening for the cooler---and here you can see the roofing buttons more clearly:
The last of the insulation was the fiberglass. We mounted it paper-out, which gives us a vapor-barrier both on the inside (the foam), and the outside (the paper). At this point we had caulked all of the inside joints, as you can see here:
We finished the day by mounting the sheetrock, steel door, and cooling unit. Here's two pictures of things looked at this point:
The door was problematic in that I wanted it to swing out into the main room, but it is designed to swing in. We had to pull the brick moulding off one side and mount it on the other, then cut our own moulding for the top piece as the hinges force the two side pieces farther apart than they were on the other side.
Copyright (c) 1998, David Yon
yon@rfdsoftware.com